Central Europe & Italy (’05)
This was my first backpacking trip through Europe with a good friend of mine, Pierre Suen. The take-off date was 23rd of May (2005), a day that would kick-off a five week trip through the heart of Europe. It was an unforgettable experience, I enjoyed every day of it. By the time we were wrapping up with our trip, I was already mapping out the root for my next one. It was worth every penny.
Itinerary
Germany:
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24 May : arrive to Frankfurt
25 May : day in Frankfurt
26 May [m]: leave for Wurzburg
26 May [n]: day in Wurzburg & leave for Rothenburg (book ahead)
27 May : day in Rothenburg
28 May [m]: leave for Fussen (Konigswinkel)
29 May [m]: leave for Munich
31 May [m]: leave for ZurichSwitzerland:
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01 May : day in Zurich
02 May [m]: leave for Bern
02 May [n]: day at Bern
03 May : day at Bern
04 Jun [m]: Market Day at Bern (morning) leave for Interlaken
04 Jun [n]: arrive in Interlaken and make way to Gimmelwald
05 Jun [m]: hike to Shilthorn from Gimmelwald
05 Jun [n]: back to Interlaken /intermediate point for Jungfrau
06 Jun [m]: trip to Jungfrau / wander around
06 Jun [n]: leave for Milan (night train)Italy:
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07 Jun [m]: day in Milan
08 Jun : day in Milan (La Scala)
09 Jun [m]: leave for Cinque Terra
09 Jun [n]: day in Cinque Terra
10 Jun [m]: leave for Pisa
10 Jun [n]: leave for Sienna
11 Jun : day at Sienna
12 Jun : leave for Florence
13 Jun : day at Florence
14 Jun : day at Florence
15 Jun [m]: leave for Rome
15 Jun [n]: day in Rome
16 Jun : day in Rome
17 Jun [m]: day in Rome
17 Jun [n]: night train to Venice (9 hr)
18 Jun [m]: day in Venice
19 Jun : day in Venice
20 Jun [m]: day in Venice
20 Jun [n]: night train to Vienna (12 hr)Austria / Hungary / Czech Republic:
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21 Jun : day in Vienna
22 Jun : day in Vienna
23 Jun [m]: leave for Budapest
23 Jun [n]: day in Budapest
24 Jun [m]: day in Budapest
24 Jun [n]: leave for Prague (night train)
25 Jun : day in Prague
26 Jun : day in Prague
27 Jun [m]: leave for Dresden (2hr)
27 Jun [n]: day in Dresden
28 Jun [m]: leave for Berlin
28 Jun [n]: day in Berlin
29 Jun : day in Berlin
30 Jun [m]: leave for Minsk (visiting grandparents)
08 Jul : leave for Frankfurt
10 Jul : fly to Toronto
Post-Trip Impressions (circa fall 2005)
It certainly was an awesome trip. The sights, the people, the memories and the experience were worth every second spent preparing for this trip. In fact, I think I'm going to continue what I started and next (this coming) summer head back to finish up the rest of Europe. And then, oh boy! We got Australia, Far East and South America! The possibilities are endless; I can only hope that I will have the time and finances to fulfill them all.
We followed the above itinerary very closely and I think it worked out really well in the end. We saw far more in five weeks that we spent there than most other people we've met on the trip - largely because we knew where we were heading. There is certainly a good counter-argument to this which says that the ability to move around at will and by spot decisions yields a 'more interesting' trip, but I think this has to agree with your personality more so than a general consensus. Personally, I like to know where I'm heading and when I'm there, I like to know why. I brought guidebooks for every country/city we visited and I knew what I was looking for at every point in the trip. This may not sound too exciting to some, but it all depends on what you're looking to get out of the trip in the first place. Besides, your itinerary is not set in stone, you are at will to change it at any point during the trip. I see it as being aware of the time you have and things you want to see, and having an itinerary allows you to put those two together.
Germany
Germany has a lot of beautiful small towns, and they are worth every minute of your trip. First off, I have to say, one day is more than enough for Frankfurt. We scheduled two days for the city (to allow for jet-lag) but one would have been just fine as there is not much to see there. The city was leveled after WWII and rebuilt from scratch as a financial center, it also serves as a major transportation hub in Europe and is famous for its almost year round trade shows. But outside of the finance industry, there is not much else to see. On the other hand, Rothenburg, Wurzburg and Fussen are some of the most well known cities on the Romantische Strasse (Romantic Road - between Frankfurt and Munich) and for a good reason! Outside of the industrial and financial centers of Germany these cities give you a glimpse back into the history of the country as you stroll along the cobblestone streets. Rothenburg, amazingly enough was spared by WWII and gives you an authentic feel of a medieval town (so does Wurzburg). And who could forget Neuschweinstein! Everyone is familiar with the Disney castle right? It's something you have to see in person to appreciate fully. And then, of course, the beer halls of Munich! This is where Oktoberfest happens, it's an amazing city. Unlike Frankfurt, the city was carefully restored after WWII and enjoys a rich cultural life and attracts a lot of tourists because of it.
We also stopped for a day in Dresden, and to this day I have a mixed bag of feelings about this city. As you or may not know, the city was completely destroyed by allied bombing at the end of WWII and everything you see today has been carefully rebuilt (still in process, and to this day you can still see some remains of it). However, either the industrial center down the river or pollution in general have already covered the buildings with a dark black shade - it's a gloomy experience. Our last stop in Germany was Berlin! We spent two busy days here as there is a lot of history (fairly recent history too) to be seen in the capital of Deutschland! The city was divided between the Soviet Union and the Allies for most of the twentieth century and you can still see the difference between the west and east as you travel through the city. Taking a stroll through the dome of the Reichstag, visiting Checkpoint Charlie and seeing the remains of the wall are all must-see sights in this city.
Switzerland
For a getaway from the big cities, try Switzerland! Zurich and Bern are the largest cities in the country, but they are still easily covered on foot. Zurich is the financial capital of the country and you can see that by simply counting the Ferrari's on the street! Both cities deserve a full day excursion to enjoy the sights and get a feel for the Swiss culture today. However, among travelers that is not what the country is known for and rightfully so, because it's the Alps, the scenery and a plethora of outdoor fun that defines this country! Iterlaken, a fairly small city located at the heart of Switzerland operates purely on tourism, it's a place where everybody can find something to do: para gliding, rafting, hiking in the Alps, ascending to the top of Jungfrau (highest peak in Europe), bungee, sky diving... You name it, they've got it! You could spend weeks here and still not try it all.
Italy
Where do I begin with Italy... Coming from Switzerland our first stop was Milan. This is the industrial center of the country and also the fashion capital of the world. Personally, we didn't stroll through the boutiques due to the obvious financial constraints but we did spend a day in the center of the city and even managed to attend a performance at the La Scala at night! If you're short on time, you could skip Milan as historically there are far more interesting places in Italy. Next, our stop was at Riomaggiori. This is a beautiful region on the western coast of Italy (UNESCO protected) and I only wish we had more time to explore it and enjoy the beaches there. Then came Pisa and Sienna! There is not much to see in Pisa aside from the Field of Miracles (location of the Pisa tower and several other notables) so a quick stopover for 4-5 hours will do justice to this city. Sienna on the other hand I think is worth a full day as it offers a lot of history without a lot of tourists. Besides, you can see some real Tuscan countryside just outside the city!
Next, came the big three: Florence, Rome and Venice. Florence deserves at least two days if you want to cover all the major museums and sights (literally at least two days as you often have to either wait for 5+ hours to get into Uffizi or if you're smart you can reserve tickets for the next day and skip the lines). Taking a stroll through the Uffizi, The Academia (David), learn about the Medici's, Michelangelo, Machiavelli, the list goes on! And then after the historical overload in Florence you roll into Rome and find yourself dumbstruck in front of the Colosseum! Get yourself a hefty guidebook for this city as almost every corner here has at least a thousand of years of history behind it. The Vatican City alone deserves a full day excursion, and countless museums and other 'must-see' sights could occupy you for a week. We spent three days in Rome, but I think we could have easily made it four or five and still wouldn't have been able to cover it all. To conclude this historical excursion we took the night train to Venice. This was one of the most grueling train trips of my life. Hot and humid outside, broken (on to the max) AC inside and barely any sleep later we found ourselves on the train station in Venice at 5:30 in the morning. However, as tired as we were it was still amazing to find yourself in the city as it wakes up. By 6:30 we were at the Piazza San Marco (St. Mark's Square - main square) and literally had the whole thing to ourselves. We scheduled three days for this city (one of which, incidentally, we spent sleeping at the hotel) but two days would probably be more than enough to cover the main sights. So, in conclusion, I wish we had the time to travel further south to Naples and the surrounding areas but in retrospect it may be better left out for another trip. You can literally hit a historical overload when you try to see all of Italy at once!
Austria, Czech Republic and Hungary
Unfortunately time did not permit us to explore each of these countries to the full extent each one of them deserves and we were only able to visit the capitals of each. Our first stop coming out of Italy was Vienna. This city has been the intellectual center of Europe for centuries and it left me with a feeling of a vibrant cultural town. (I wish I could be a student there) Countless cafes', rich history, good museums and great night life (from classical music to latest in night clubs). Next, we took a side trip to Budapest and spent a couple of days there in the blistering heat. One of the landmarks of the city are its hot, rich mineral waters which are pumped into a number public baths and pools. Each bath offers its own mix of minerals - doctors in the past (and to this day) often prescribed them as medical treatments. Not bad for a public bath! After Budapest, a night train took us to Prague. This is an amazing city. It's very cheap, it has an amazing atmosphere to it and also sports some magnificent views. All jokes aside, groups of people often fly into Prague from Britain for the weekend with the sole purpose of getting trashed and to enjoy the night life. It's cheaper to fly there, spend two days and fly back then party back in Britain! Needless to say, you can find a lot of backpackers here having the time of their lives.
Poland and Belarus
To conclude my trip and before my return to Canada I went to visit my grandparents in Belarus. I made a stopover in Warsaw and spent a day wandering through the city. I must have visited Warsaw at least half a dozen of times in the past with my parents, but we usually never had the time to explore it fully. (Or when we did, I was too small to care about it at all). Poland has come a long way, and it's striking how different two neighboring countries can be. I only wish that Belarus will one day at least head in the same direction as Poland in terms of economic development. Once I arrived in Minsk, I met up with my cousin Dima (he is in University of Toronto) and we spent some time in the city (Minsk), and outside of it. We even managed to break a spinning when we went fishing! The thing was huge, I'm telling you! H U G E!
Alas, all good things come to an end and soon I found myself hopping trains (Minsk - Warsaw - Berlin - Frankfurt) and 27 hours later I was in Frankfurt checking-in into my last hostel. Next morning I would be going back home. Two months flew by, but the memories and the experience remain with me - and I wouldn't trade it in for anything. So if you are on the fence, or in the process of contemplating doing something similar, I only have one piece of advice for you: Do it. In the meantime, I'm going to go back to the drawing board and start planning my next trip!
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- 02.05.05 / 11pm
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